Green Pool Rescue: fix it this weekend
A green pool is an algae bloom, and algae loses to exactly one thing: enough chlorine, held long enough. Here's the battle plan — with your exact dose computed below, not a scoop-per-10,000-gallons guess.
First, 60 seconds of triage
| What you see | What it is | Your move |
|---|---|---|
| Green water, slick walls | Green algae bloom | This page — shock and hold |
| Milky white, not green | Cloudy water, not algae | Cloudy water guide |
| Yellow/brown dust on shady walls | Mustard algae | This plan, at a higher shock level, and sun the equipment |
| Clear but chlorine won't hold | Something consuming FC | Chlorine-not-holding guide |
Step 1 — Test three things: FC, pH, CYA
CYA (stabilizer) decides everything. It binds most of your chlorine in reserve, so the free chlorine needed to kill algae is about 40% of your CYA reading. Then put pH at 7.2–7.4 before you shock — chlorine is a dramatically faster killer at low pH, and pH readings go unreliable at shock levels anyway.
Step 2 — Shock to YOUR number, not a bag count
Enter your volume, current chlorine, and CYA. This is DoseMyPool's real engine:
Liquid chlorine is the cleanest tool for the job (adds nothing but salt). Cal-hypo works too, but it adds calcium — skip it if your calcium hardness is already high.
Step 3 — Brush everything, then filter around the clock
Chlorine can't kill what it can't touch. Brush the walls, floor, steps, and behind the ladder, then run the filter 24/7 until clear. Rising filter pressure is good news — it's catching dead algae. Backwash or rinse the cartridge when pressure climbs ~25% over clean.
Step 4 — Hold the line (this is where most people lose)
One shock dose doesn't end a bloom; algae regrows the moment chlorine sags. Re-test morning and evening, and re-dose back to shock level each time. Expect green → grey-cloudy in 24–48 hours, then clearer each day.
Step 5 — Know when you're actually done
- Water is clear (you can see the main drain crisply)
- Combined chlorine under 0.3 ppm
- FC holds overnight — loses no more than ~1 ppm with the sun down
Then let FC drift down to its normal CYA-based target and get back to a weekly test rhythm — that's the part the app automates, with reminders, history, and exact maintenance doses.
Or let the app hold the line for you
This entire battle plan is built into DoseMyPool as guided Shock Mode: it computes your exact shock target from CYA, schedules the morning and evening re-test reminders, recalculates the dose from every new reading, tracks the overnight chlorine-loss test automatically, and only declares victory when all three finish criteria hold — with a Live Activity showing the rescue's progress on your Lock Screen the whole time. No spreadsheet, no guessing whether you're done.
FAQ
How long does it take to clear a green pool?
Typically 2–4 days: green to cloudy-grey in 24–48 hours with chlorine held at shock level, then 1–2 more days of filtering to polish. Very heavy algae or weak filtration can take a week.
Can I swim while shocking?
No. Wait until free chlorine falls back below ~5 ppm (or your CYA-based safe ceiling) and the water is clear enough to see the bottom.
Why did my pool turn green right after shocking?
Usually the shock level was too low for your CYA. Stabilizer binds most of your chlorine, so the free chlorine needed to kill algae is about 40% of your CYA reading — far more than a "1 bag per 10,000 gallons" rule of thumb.
When is draining the better answer?
If CYA is above ~90–100 ppm, the shock level needed becomes impractical to reach and hold. A partial drain and refill to lower CYA first is usually cheaper and faster than fighting it.
Related
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